April 7, 2015 by Scott - Saws on Skates
Hey there wine lovers! Today I’m sharing DIY furniture plans for a DIY wine cabinet. It features a drawer perfect for storing a bottle opener, nine spaces for wine bottles and three holders for wine glasses. The project is assembled with pocket holes and pocket screws, so the construction is simple.
I had a small empty wall in my dining room that was begging for a cool piece of furniture. I love this Mod Wine Bar by Lady Goats, but it was too large for my space.
I was also inspired by a plan on woodcraft.com that incorporated the stemware in the cabinet.
I combined the best elements of each plan and came up with a plan for my own DIY wine cabinet. I made some tweaks to my plan after I built my original cabinet. Those tweaks are featured in the plan below. Enjoy and good luck!
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DIY Wine Cabinet Plan
1 sheet 4’x8′ 1/2″ plywood (you’ll have extra)
1/8″ hardboard (for drawer bottom)
1/4″ plywood (for bottle dividers)
9 feet of 1×4 boards
5 feet of 1×3 boards
5 feet of 1×12 boards
1 foot of 1×5 boards
#8 1-1/4″ wood screws
1-1/4″ finish nails
1″ pocket screws
1-1/4″ pocket screws
120 grit sandpaper
The side panels are made from 1/2″ plywood. To make them, rip the 1/2″ plywood to width (11-1/4″), then cut to length. The shelves, front rail, back rails, top supports, back pieces and bottle dividers are all the same width (11″), set your saw once and cut all these pieces to width at the same time to ensure a perfect fit.
Safety First! Be sure to wear safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask.
Build two side panels. First cut 1x2s and 1x4s to the width of the plywood side panel (11-1/4″), then attach with glue and 1-1/4″ finish nails (nail from the inside to avoid nail holes on the outside of the piece).
You’ll also need to make pocket holes in the front and back edge of each side panel to attach the legs in Step 2. Make pocket holes for 1/2″ stock and position the holes so they will be hidden by other elements of the piece (see diagram). This way you’ll avoid having to fill any pocket holes.
Cut four legs. Attach the legs using glue and 1″ pocket screws using the pocket holes you made in step 1. Be sure the side panels are flush to the inside of the legs. Side panels will be set in approximately 1/4″ from the outside of the leg.
Cut shelf parts and assemble using glue and pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Attach completed shelves using pocket holes set for 1/2″ stock and 1″ pocket hole screws. Start with the bottom shelf and work up. For alignment purposes it’s helpful to cut two pieces of scrap wood 4-1/2″ tall. Clamp the scrap to the bottom of each side panel, then you can set the shelf on top of the scrap and attach the shelf with pocket screws. For the next shelf, cut two pieces of scrap wood 11″ tall. Set the scrap on top of the first shelf and clamp to the side panel, then set the shelf on top of the scrap and attach the shelf with pocket screws. Repeat for the final shelf. NOTE: Be sure all shelves are flush to the front legs (the back of the shelf will be set in approximately 1/2″ from the back of the legs to accept the back panels in Step 8)
Cut 3 rails (1 front and 2 back rails). Rails are 1×3’s. Attach front rail using pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Be sure to set the front rail in from the front of the legs 1/4″. The back rails are attached flush to the legs (directly below the shelf).
The stemware holders are made from 1/2″ plywood. Rip parts to width and cut to length, assemble using glue and 1-1/4 finish nails.
Once glue is dry, attach stemware holders beneath top shelf using glue and 1-1/4″ nails. Cut a piece of scrap wood to 3″ to use a spacer to properly align the holders.
Cut top supports and attach using pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front support is set in 1″ from the front of the legs and the rear support is set in 1/2″ from the back of the legs. Drill 4 holes, one in each corner, so the top can be installed in the next step.
Cut top pieces attach using pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Attach top to base using 1-1/4″ screws through the 4 holes drilled in the top supports.
Cut top and bottom back panels from 1/2″ plywood and attach using 1-1/4 finish nails.
I’m not a fan of drawer slides, so this plan doesn’t use any. Measure the drawer opening before cutting any drawer parts. Please allow for 1/8 ” on the right and left side of the drawer, so it will move freely. Adjust the dimensions of the drawer if necessary. Cut the drawer box parts, drill pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock in the front and back pieces of the drawer box and assemble 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Cut 1/8″ hardboard and install to the bottom of the drawer with 1 1/4″ finish nails.
Cut the drawer front (be sure to allow 1/8″ on each side of the drawer front). Slide the drawer box into the opening and shim the drawer front so it’s evenly spaced in the opening (coins like quarters, nickles, etc. make great shims!). Drill a hole for the knob, remove drawer front, drawer box and install the knob. Reinstall the drawer and adjust spacing around drawer front then tighten the knob screw. From inside the box use two 1-1/4″ wood screws to secure the drawer front to the drawer box.
The four pieces that make up the bottle dividers are 1/4″ plywood and are identical. The easiest way to make them is with a router table and a 1/4″ straight cutting bit. Set the fence for 3 1/2″ and make a pass to the 6 3/4″ mark, then flip and make a second pass – that’s it! Once cuts are made on all four pieces, assemble (it will be a snug fit, so glue isn’t needed) and install in the bottle divider area.