DIY Kids Picnic Table

Tiny tea parties, giant smiles! Build a kid-sized picnic table in an afternoon with this easy-to-follow plan. Perfect for hours of outdoor fun.

Are your little ones dreaming of summertime crafts and backyard tea parties? Turn those dreams into reality in just an afternoon. I’ll show you how to build a charming kid-sized picnic table, the perfect spot for laughter, snacks, and memories that will last a lifetime.

This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase from these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. Visit my site policies for more information.

What Wood Should You Use?

Pine: I used pine 2×4s to make my picnic table. Pine is affordable, but it’s not rot-resistant. I recommend applying a protective finish like paint or spar urethane to extend its lifespan. For additional protection, consider placing your pine picnic table on a covered porch and storing it indoors during the off-season.

Related: Spar Urethane vs Polyurethane (Differences + Which to Use)

Pressure-treated lumber: Pressure-treated lumber, or PT, is a popular option for outdoor projects as it resists rot and insect damage. However, even though the chemicals used to treat it these days are supposedly less toxic, I prefer not to use it for my outdoor furniture projects.

Pine and pressure-treated: If you use pine, the legs will rot the quickest because they will absorb moisture from the ground. Alternatively, you could use pressure treated lumber for the legs and make the rest of the table with pine. 

Cedar: Cedar is a naturally rot-resistant wood that’s a great choice for outdoor furniture. While it has a beautiful grain and weathers well over time, it often costs more than pine.

---

What Tools Do You Need?

I used two basic tools to make my kid-sized picnic table:

• Miter Saw
• Drill

Optional: The 2×4s have round edges, but the cut edges are square and sharp, which could be a safety hazard for kiddos. To make them safer and give the project a finished look, I rounded them using a router and a roundover bit. If you don’t have a router, you can also smooth the edges with sandpaper.

---

Step 1. Make the Leg Assemblies

The legs are four pieces of wood cut to length with parallel angles on each end.

To make these cuts, I adjusted my miter saw and made a cut on one end of a board.

On the long edge, I marked the length. 

I moved the board, aligning the mark with the blade. I also set a stop so I could cut the remaining legs to the same length.

Related: Why Can’t I Make Accurate Cuts? (& How to Fix It!)

With the workpiece in position, I made the cut.

I cut two pieces of wood to length for the seat supports.

Following the diagram in the printed plan, I marked the location for angles, which will remove the sharp corners and give the project a polished look.

After adjusting my miter saw, I cut an angle on each end.

I cut two pieces of wood to length for the table supports.

Following the diagram, I marked the location for angles and cut one on each end.

To ensure the picnic table was super smooth and splinter-free for little ones, I sanded all the parts before assembling them.

The lumber has round edges, but the cut edges are square and sharp, which could be a safety hazard for kiddos. To make them safer and give the project a finished look, I rounded them using my trim router and a roundover bit. If you don’t have a router, you can also smooth the edges with sandpaper.

To help mark the screw locations that attach the legs to the seat and table supports, I followed the same method I used to make the legs, cutting two pieces of scrap wood to length.

I placed the scrap wood on the leg and marked it using a pencil.

On the lines, I measured in on each side.

Using an awl, I made a starting point for the drill bit.

Related: What is an Awl? (& How to Use It)

Following the diagram in the printed plan, I measured from each side of the seat and table support’s top edge. These marks will help position the legs on the supports.

To eliminate guesswork when positioning the legs, I followed the same method I used to make them, cutting two pieces of scrap wood to length and clamping them to the bottom of each leg.

I positioned the leg on the seat support’s mark and clamped it.

Then, I clamped the table supports to the top of the legs.

Using a countersink bit, I drilled a hole at each mark.

Related: How to Use a Countersink Bit

I attached the legs to the supports using exterior wood screws.

Repeat for the second leg assembly.

---

Step 2. Attach the Stretcher

Following the diagram in the printed plan, I marked the location for two holes that connect the seat support to the stretcher, and made a starting point for the drill using an awl. 

Using my miter saw, I cut one piece of wood to length for the stretcher that connects the leg assemblies.

I centered the stretcher on the legs and clamped it in position.

TIP: I used a speed square to ensure the stretcher was square to the seat supports.

Using a countersink bit, I drilled a hole at each mark.

I attached the stretcher using wood screws.

TIP: I had to reposition the clamp to access the second screw location.

---

Step 3. Attach the Braces

The leg assemblies are stabilized with two braces. After adjusting my miter saw, I made a cut on one end.

I flipped the workpiece, measured on the long edge, and made a mark.

With the workpiece in position, I cut the second angle.

I repeated this step to make the second brace.

I positioned the brace on the assembly and drilled a countersink hole.

Using exterior wood screws, I attached the brace to the leg assembly.

I repeated this step on the other end, connecting the brace to the stretcher and attaching the second brace.

---

Step 4. Attach the Top

The top and seat boards are the same length. Using my miter saw, I cut nine pieces of wood to length, five for the top and four for the seats.

Following the diagram in the printed plan, I marked the ends for countersink holes that I’ll use to attach them to the leg assemblies.

I centered the middle board on the leg assembly and clamped it in position.

Then, I drilled countersink holes at each mark and attached it using exterior wood screws.

I repeated this step to attach the remaining table top boards.

TIP: The outside boards have 45-degree angles to remove the sharp corners.

---

Step 5. Attach the Seats

Using the remaining boards from Step 4, I cut 45-degree angles to remove the sharp outside corners.

I positioned the seat boards, clamped them to the seat support, and drilled countersink holes at each mark.

Using exterior wood screws, I attached them to the supports.

That’s it. With a coat of paint or sealer, your picnic table is ready for all the fun – crafts, tea parties, and more!

---

---

Video

Watch now, and I’ll show you step-by-step how to make a DIY kid-sized picnic table.

---

Final Thoughts

With a few basic tools, you can create a backyard centerpiece for countless memories. Imagine the laughter, snacks, and stories your little ones will share around this table.

Don’t wait. Get your PDF plan (including the detailed instructions and measurements) now!

Thank you for stopping by. If you enjoyed this tutorial, would you please take a moment and pin it to Pinterest? I’d really appreciate it!

---

Recommended For You

---

Pin This For Later