DIY Antique-Style Wooden Sled

This easy-to-make wooden sled, inspired by vintage finds, is perfect for holiday decorating or adding a touch of winter whimsy throughout the season.

Spruce up your winter decor with a touch of nostalgic charm. In this easy-to-follow tutorial, I’ll walk you through making an antique-style wooden sled, perfect for Christmastime decorating or adding a cozy, wintery ambiance throughout the season. 

Plus, I’ve included a template to ensure picture-perfect results. So grab your tools and get ready to bring snowy day memories indoors.

Inspiration for This Project

Two pieces inspired this adorable antique-style wooden sled. Years ago, I saw a similar one on a Facebook woodworking group. Then, I spotted another one in the carriage barn of the historical society where I volunteer. I loved both designs, so I combined the ideas to create this sled.

It’s perfect for holiday decorating or displaying throughout the winter. Imagine it nestled beneath your Christmas tree, overflowing with wrapped presents, or leaning against a door or fireplace draped with festive greenery. The possibilities are endless.

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What Wood Should You Use?

Inexpensive pine boards kept my sled project budget-friendly, but a hardwood like oak or walnut would really make it shine.

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What Tools Do You Need?

I used four tools to make my vintage sled:

• Miter Saw
• Jigsaw
• Drill (and a right angle drill attachment)
• Pocket Hole Jig

Optional:

• Disc Sander: A disc sander is the fastest way to tackle the saw marks on the runner’s outside curves, allowing you to smooth the wood quickly. However, if you don’t have one, you can smooth them by hand with sandpaper, but it will be more time-consuming.
• Portable Spindle Sander: Smoothing the runner’s inside curves is the quickest and easiest with a portable spindle sander. You can also smooth them by hand using sandpaper, but it takes more time and effort.
• Trim Router and Roundover Bit: Using a router and roundover bit, you can dress up your sled’s edges with a rounded profile for a refined look. However, if you don’t have a router, sandpaper can achieve a similar result.

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How Do You Draw the Sled’s Curved Runners?

If you’re artistically inclined, you can sketch the sled’s curves by hand. However, creating the perfect shape can be challenging if you’re like me and don’t have a knack for drawing. Don’t worry; I’ve got you covered. My handy template, included with the plan does all the hard work for you. 

Print the template, and tape it together, and you’re good to go.

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How Do You Finish the Sled?

To give my sled an antique look, I first treated it with Varathane’s Aged Wood Accelerator. After letting it dry for a day, I decided to add a touch more darkness. So, I lightly sanded it and applied a coat of Behr’s “Dark Walnut” water-based stain, which deepened the wood’s tone. Once that dried completely, I finished the sled with three coats of a matte polyurethane alternative, giving it a protective layer without making it overly shiny.

Related: Varathane Aged Wood Accelerator (Review & 5 Woods Tested)

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Step 1. Make the Runners

NOTE: This project is for decorative use only.

I began by assembling the runner template

TIP: When printing the template, make sure the scale is set to 100% (usually found under “more settings”).

The sheets have a white border around them, but they need to be joined together at the edges. 

Using a metal ruler, I ensured the straight lines were positioned correctly.

I joined them using tape once the sheets were in the correct position.

TIP: After trying a few methods, I recommend assembling the top of the template first. Then, position the bottom sheets and tape them in place.

Using a pencil, I filled in the gaps between the sheets.

You can use carbon paper to transfer the pattern, placing it between the template and the wood, dark side down, and tracing the lines with a pen or pencil.

However, for easier and more accurate tracing, I prepare my templates by attaching them to a manila folder using spray adhesive. I just ran out of the one I used for this project and replaced it with this adhesive.

I prefer this method because the folder’s edge provides a handy lip for the pencil to follow.

Using scissors, I cut out the template.

The template’s rectangular areas show where to position the stretchers that join the runners. Using a straightedge and a utility knife, I cut them out.

At the miter saw, I cut two pieces of wood to length for the runners.

Using painter’s tape, I temporarily attached the template and traced it with a pencil.

NOTE: Since I am going to sand the runners, I will wait to trace the rectangular areas.

With a drill bit I made a starting point for the saw blade to cut the runner’s interior opening.

I secured the board to my Kreg Mobile Project Center using their bench clamp. My workbench setup is two Mobile Project Centers side-by-side, although they’re no longer available for purchase.

With a jigsaw, I cut the shape. What’s my secret for perfect curves? I cut just beyond the pencil line, then sand, removing the saw marks and refining the shape.

I’ve found it’s easiest to sand the outside edges with a disc sander, but you can use sandpaper if you don’t have one.

A portable spindle sander is my go-to tool for sanding inside curves.

With the edges sanded, I moved on to smoothing the faces with my random orbit sander.

For a decorative touch, I rounded over the inner and outer edges with a roundover bit in my trim router.

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Step 2. Attach the Stretchers

At the miter saw, I cut two pieces of wood to length for the stretchers.

TIP: I set a stop so I could cut the pieces to the same length.

Using my pocket hole jig, I drilled two in each end to connect the stretchers to the runners.

Related: How to Use a Pocket Hole Jig (& Beginner Pitfalls to Avoid)

I inspected the runners, looking for the best surface to face outward on the finished sled. Once I made my decision, I placed them on my workbench with the inside surface facing upward.

I positioned the template on the runner and traced the rectangular reference marks.

TIP: Be sure to make a left and right runner.

The stretchers set down from the top of the runners to allow clearance for the seat boards. To help position them, I placed the runner upside down on my workbench and clamped pieces of scrap wood above the reference marks.

Once the scrap wood was attached, I flipped the runners, placing their bottom edge against my workbench. I positioned the stretchers on the reference marks, below the scrap wood, with the pocket holes facing toward the sled’s interior and clamped them in position.

The sled’s interior is confined; using my drill and a right angle drill attachment, I joined the stretchers to the runners with pocket hole screws.

To hide the pocket screws and create a seamless look, I applied glue and filled them with pocket hole plugs. After the glue dried, I sanded them flush with the surface using my random orbit sander.

Related: How to Make Pocket Hole Plugs

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Step 3. Attach the Seat Slats

Using my miter saw, I cut five pieces of wood to length for the seat slats.

TIP: I set a stop so I could cut the slats to the same length.

After sanding them with my orbital sander, I rounded over all the edges with my trim router and a roundover bit.

TIP: To prevent tear-out, I recommend routing the end grain first, followed by the edge grain.

After laying the slats on the sled, I carefully examined each one to find the side with the most attractive grain pattern.

Once I was pleased with the layout, I labeled the underside of the slat and its corresponding location on the stretcher, ensuring I could put them back in the same place.

Ideally, the slats should extend beyond each stretcher. However, there might be slight deviations from this measurement depending on where I positioned the stretchers on the reference marks.

For the best fit, I adjusted my Kreg Multi-Mark until the slats were centered on the stretchers.

To that Multi-Mark measurement, I added ⅜” and made reference lines to determine where to position the screws that will attach the slats to the stretcher.

On each edge, I measured in, and using an awl, I made a starting point for the drill bit.

Related: What is an Awl? (& How to Use It)

To ensure even spacing between the slats, I used pieces of MDF as temporary spacers. Again, I used my Multi-Mark to center them on the stretchers.

Using a countersink bit, I drilled a hole at each mark.

Related: How to Use a Countersink Bit

I wanted to stain my sled, but there wasn’t a lot of space between the slats. So, to make the finishing process easier, I didn’t attach them. This way, I could thoroughly apply the stain and top coat to each slat and runner. After staining and finishing, I’ll attach them to the sled. (See “How to Finish the Sled” for details.)

When the top coat was dry, I placed the slats on the sled and centered them from end to end.

I chose these brass screws because I thought they best complemented my sled’s antique look. To avoid damaging the screws, I set my drill for low speed and the clutch to 3.

Related: How to Use a Drill (Tips & Techniques)

Using my drill, I drove the screws almost the entire way and then hand-tightened them with a screwdriver.

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Final Thoughts

With this antique-style sled, you can add a touch of winter nostalgia to your home’s decor. It’s perfect for displaying next to an entry door or fireplace or even as a base for a tabletop Christmas tree.

Don’t wait. Get your PDF plan (including the detailed instructions and measurements) now!

Thank you for stopping by. If you enjoyed this tutorial, would you please take a moment and pin it to Pinterest? I’d really appreciate it!

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