DIY French Cleat Mouse Sander Rack
Build a better mousetrap. This easy-to-make DIY French cleat rack keeps your mouse sander organized and your shop squeaky clean.

Does your little cheese grater, um, I mean mouse sander, nibble up too much space in your workshop? This clever holder is the perfect “pest control” solution, keeping it organized and easy to find. Even better, it uses the space-saving French cleat system, allowing you to customize the fit for your workspace. Follow along as I show you how to build this handy “rodent rack” in a few simple steps.
Table of Contents
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Inspiration for This Project
I’ve mentioned in several tutorials that I installed a French cleat wall in my garage to store tools I don’t always need in my workshop. This clever system uses angled cleats that lock together and hold securely. Because the cleats are adjustable, I can easily rearrange them to fit my needs. It’s a great way to keep things organized and free up space in my tiny shop.
Related: How to Make a French Cleat (2 Easy Ways)
One of the tools I don’t often use is my mouse sander. I bought it thinking it would be great for reaching confined, hard-to-reach places, but honestly, I’ve only used it once or twice. So, to free up space in my shop, I designed this rack with a shelf for extra sandpaper to store on my French cleat wall.
What Wood Should You Use?
I made this project using leftover plywood from building my French cleat wall, tool shelf, jigsaw holder, router shelf, pencil holder, Rip-Cut holder, and oscillating tool holder.
What Tools Do You Need?
I used five tools to make my mouse sander rack:
- Table saw
- Miter saw
- Drill
- Brad nailer
Optional:
- Rip-Cut: I used my Kreg Rip-Cut to break down a larger section of plywood, but you could use a table saw instead.
- Pocket hole jig: I used a pocket hole jig to attach the back to the sides, but you could use brad nails instead.
How to Make a French Cleat Mouse Sander Rack
Printed Plan
Get the PDF plan here (includes detailed instructions, measurements, and bonus tips)
Materials
- Wood (per the printed plan)
- 1-¼” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-¼” Brad Nails
- 1-¼” Wood Screws
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Kreg Multi-Mark
- Table Saw or Circular Saw and Kreg Rip-Cut
- Miter Saw
- Pocket Hole Jig
- Drill
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Brad Nailer or Hammer
Step 1. Make the Sides
All the parts for this project were cut from ¾” plywood. To save on materials, I used scraps left over from making my French cleat wall and tool holders.
To get started, I ripped plywood to width for the sides. While I used my Kreg Rip-Cut, you could use a table saw instead.
Related: How to Make a French Cleat Kreg Rip-Cut Holder
Using my miter saw, I cut two pieces to length for the sides.
TIP: I set a stop so I could repeat the cut on the second side.
Following the diagram in the printed plan, I marked a 45-degree angle on the sides.
After adjusting my miter saw to 45 degrees, I made the cut.
I’m going to use brad nails to attach the sides to the shelves. To help position the nails, I marked reference lines on the sides:
TIP: Be sure to make a right and left side.
Step 2. Attach the Back
The back and shelves are the same width. To make these parts, I ripped plywood to width using my table saw.
Related: 21 Table Saw Safety Rules (& Mistakes to Avoid)
At the miter saw, I cut one piece to length for the back.
Following the diagram in the printed plan, I marked the locations for pocket holes that I’ll use to connect the back to the sides.
TIP: You can attach the back with brad nails if you prefer not to use pocket hole joinery.
Using my pocket hole jig, I drilled one at each mark.
Related: How to Use a Pocket Hole Jig (& Beginner Mistakes to Avoid)
After clamping the back to the side, I attached it using pocket hole screws.
Step 3. Attach the Shelves
Using leftover material from making the back, I positioned it on the side and marked it for length.
At the miter saw, I cut two pieces to this length for the top and bottom shelves.
TIP: Since the shelves are the same length, I set a stop, ensuring the cuts are identical.
I applied glue to the edges of the shelf, clamped it in position, and attached it using brad nails.
Following the diagram in the printed plan, I applied glue to the top shelf and positioned it using my Kreg Multi-Mark.
I clamped it in place and attached it using brad nails.
For the remaining side, I applied glue, placed it on the assembly, and attached it with brad nails.
Dig the shirt? It’s a Saws on Skates original. Find more on my Merch page.
On the back, I attached the side using pocket hole screws.
Step 4. Attach the French Cleat
I cut a French cleat to length and marked the location for countersink holes.
Related: How to Make a French Cleat (2 Easy Ways)
TIP: If you attached the back with pocket hole joinery, be sure to offset your countersink holes so they don’t interfere with the pocket hole screws already in your project.
Using an awl, I made a starting point for the drill bit.
Related: What is an Awl? (& How to Use It)
I clamped the cleat to the holder and drilled a hole at each mark using a countersink bit.
Related: How to Use a Countersink Bit
Using wood screws, I attached the cleat to the holder.
Includes:
- List of tools and materials
- Complete measurements (in inches)
- Easy-to-follow instructions
- Step-by-step photos
- Detailed diagrams
or get the best value:
Final Thoughts
Are you tired of playing cat and mouse with your sander? Trap it with this easy-to-make French cleat rack, and you’ll never “brie” without it again!
Don’t wait. Get your PDF plan (including the detailed instructions and measurements) now!
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