DIY Outdoor Storage Box with Doors

Build this versatile outdoor storage box perfect for stashing kids’ gear and hiding packages, with front-opening doors for easy access.

A few weeks ago, I asked Saws on Skates readers to help me choose my next woodworking project, and wow, you showed up! With nearly 40% of the votes, the winner was clear: you wanted me to build an outdoor storage box, perfect for organizing gear on the deck or keeping your delivery packages out of sight and out of the weather.

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Rethinking the Traditional Design

Once the project was chosen, it was time to bring it to life. Most versions I found open from the top, but that’s not ideal if there’s a plant, lantern, or even just a coffee cup sitting on it. So, I designed mine with two front-opening doors for easier access. Inside, it’s roomy enough to hold a storage tote, keeping packages and gear safe and dry.

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Budget-Friendly Cedar with a Catch

For the build, I chose inexpensive cedar pickets, the kind you’ll find near the fencing section at most home improvement stores. They’re about ⅝” thick and 6 feet long. Affordable? Yes. However, they come rough-sawn, meaning the surface is fuzzy and uneven, unlike the smooth 1x boards you might be used to.

Prepping the Pickets: Lessons Learned

To get them ready for building, I ran the pickets through my planer. That’s when I learned something I’d do differently next time.

Related: Jointer vs Planer (Differences & Which to Buy First)

While the boards looked good (great color and grain pattern), they were slightly cupped (curved across the width like a smile or frown). I ran them through the planer with the cups facing up, which caused the planer to remove more material from the center than from the edges. Once I ripped the boards to width, they ended up more wedge-shaped than rectangular.

What I’d do differently: Rip the boards to width before planing. That would’ve flattened the cup and left me with squarer boards.

Thickness Matters

These cedar pickets also vary wildly in thickness, with some a little over ⅝” and others well under. When picking through the pile, I looked for the straightest boards with the fewest knots and selected the thickest ones so I’d have more material to work with after planing. I designed the plan for ½” material, but most of my boards ended up just about ⅝” thick.

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Rethinking Half Laps (and My Dado Stack)

I planned to join the frame with half laps for added strength and was going to use a dado stack on my table saw. But the one I had was a cheap set from nearly 30 years ago, and it never produced good results, so I wanted to upgrade.

While researching, I stumbled on a video by Inspire Woodcraft that showed how to make half laps using a flat-tooth saw blade instead of a dado stack. That caught my attention for a few reasons:

• Dado stacks are pricey
• Some table saws don’t support them
• Some countries don’t allow them
• I’d need to buy or make a throat plate

All this to say, I went with the flat-tooth blade (I used this one) to make the project more approachable. I also followed the Inspire Woodcraft tutorial, which turned out to be way easier than the method I originally planned.

TIP: Be sure to square your miter gauge before you start.

Flat Tooth Blade: Pros and Cons

One downside of the flat tooth blade is that it only removes about ⅛” at a time. So, compared to a dado stack, it takes longer, especially when making lots of half-laps.

You can use a regular blade, but most have angled teeth that leave ridges on the flat part of the half-lap joint, known as the cheek. You’d need to go back and clean those up with a chisel. It works; it just takes more time.

Can You Use a Miter Saw?

If you have a sliding miter saw with a depth stop, you can also use it to make half-laps. Just set the stop and nibble away the material. I haven’t tested it yet, but it’s on my list. However, for this project, you’d still need a table saw to rip your boards to width.

Related: Single vs Double Bevel Miter Saw (Which to Buy & Why)

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Tackling a Bit Too Much Flex

After assembling the outdoor storage box, I noticed that a few of the top boards had more flex than I’d like. Not a huge deal, but enough that I started brainstorming solutions.

Option 1: Add a Brace Inside

One option is to add a brace (or two) inside the box, running front to back. You could cut a dado into the front and back rails with a router, then glue a board in place. This would support the span and reduce the flex.

Option 2: Change the Direction of the Boards

Another idea I considered was running the top boards front to back instead of side to side, as I did on the bottom. This would shorten the span and reduce flex, but there’s a trade-off: it would leave exposed end grain visible from the front, which I don’t think is the most attractive look.

Option 3: Use Thicker Boards

Probably the best fix is to use thicker boards for the top. They’d naturally flex less, and their visual weight would give the box a more finished, capped-off look. You may still need a brace, but likely only one instead of two.

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Attaching the Top: A Bit of a Puzzle

I ran into another challenge when it was time to attach the top boards. I screwed them into the middle of the side rails with no problem, but the ends, where the half laps join, left me scratching my head.

I didn’t want to drive screws into a glue joint and risk splitting it apart.

In the end, I went with expansion brackets, the kind typically used to attach a table top to the aprons. 

Other ideas I considered:

• Attaching a cleat inside the side rails and screwing the top boards to the cleat
• Drilling pocket holes through the half-lap joint and attaching the end boards that way

Honestly? I think installing a cleat is the better option, but it feels like a bit of an afterthought, so I’m still considering other alternatives.

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Hardware Choices (a Work in Progress)

For the doors, I used silver 2-inch T-hinges. My original plan was to use black ones, and I even ordered some online, but the hinges and screws didn’t match. The hinges had a satin finish, and the screws were flat black. The mismatch just looked off.

Still Deciding on Handles

As of now, I haven’t added handles (so yes, I’ve been grabbing the stiles to open the doors, lol). I’m considering:

• Basic knobs
• Or drilling a finger hole with a Forstner bit for a clean, modern look

I also added a magnetic catch to the top of the doors, which helps keep them closed and prevents them from swinging inward into the box.

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Make the Sides

To get started, I prepped the boards and cut all the parts for the side frames. I made the half-lap joints using my table saw and this flat tooth blade.

Related: 21 Table Saw Safety Rules (& Mistakes to Avoid)

Then, I glued and clamped the assembly.

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Make the Front and Back

The process for building the front and back is basically the same as the sides, cut your rails and stiles, make the half-laps, and glue everything up. 

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Install the Slats

The slats sit inside the frame with a notch that fits over the top and bottom rails. I cut rabbets using a router to account for any variation in the interior height of the opening.

I attached them with brad nails and spacers to keep the gaps consistent. 

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Assemble the Box

I joined the front, back, and sides with screws, then covered the screw holes with plugs for a clean look. I also added biscuits to help line things up during glue-up. Biscuits are totally optional, but help keep things aligned.

TIP: Need a handy spot to store your biscuit joiner? I built a compact French cleat holder that keeps mine off the bench but always within reach. You can grab the plan here.

Before assembly, I attached cleats inside the frame to support the bottom slats later.

I measured diagonally from corner to corner to ensure the box was square.

Then, I joined it with exterior wood screws.

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Install the Bottom Slats

Once the box was assembled, I installed the bottom slats. Starting from the outside and working in, I used spacers to keep the gaps even and brad nails to hold everything in place. For the last slat in the center, I measured the remaining space and ripped it to fit.

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Attach the Top

To attach the top boards, I spaced them evenly, working from the center out, screwing them to the side rails.

For a polished look, fill the holes with plugs, matching the grain and color to the surrounding wood.

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Make and Install the Doors

The doors are built just like the other frames, with slats added using the same notch method. I used playing cards as spacers to get even gaps and attached the doors with T-hinges. A magnetic catch keeps them closed. 

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Final Thoughts

This outdoor storage box came together with a mix of planning and on-the-fly problem-solving. I designed it to be practical and functional, providing a place to store kids’ gear, hide delivery packages, or stash deck cushions. The front-opening doors make it easy to access, and the clean design helps it blend in like a piece of furniture. 

Don’t wait. Get your PDF plan (including the detailed instructions and measurements) now!

Thank you for stopping by. If you enjoyed this tutorial, would you please take a moment and pin it to Pinterest? I’d really appreciate it!

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