Today I’m sharing new DIY workshop plans for a compact project that nearly any DIYer would want. It’s a sturdy, go any where, DIY folding workbench!
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This DIY folding workbench is perfect for those DIYers without a dedicated workshop… it’s easy to set up when you’re ready to work and folds down when you’re done.
If you have a dedicated workshop the folding workbench can be unfolded for an extra work surface to assemble a project. Or it can be used as a surface to finish your project with a coat of paint or stain. Then it can be folded and stored when it’s not in use.
It’s also great for when you hit the road for a DIY project (aka saws on skates!). That’s the reason I designed this project. I’ll soon be doing a bathroom remodel (you check out the small space, big style DIY bathroom vanity I built here) for a friend and will need a workbench. I don’t know about you, but I’m not a fan of working on the ground. I’m also not crazy about the idea of working on a piece of plywood straddling sawhorses. This DIY folding workbench will give me a sturdy work surface much like the one in my shop.
My goal was to design something that met two goals. One, to be compact and easy to transport. And two, it had to be sturdy. This DIY folding workbench excels at both goals. The legs tuck neatly inside the top and when folded it should fit in the trunk of most cars. Plus, the area inside the legs provides even more storage while being transported.
The four legs provide excellent contact with the ground and also provide multiple contact points for the top, so it’s definitely sturdy. I recommend clamping the top to the legs, so the legs won’t creep inward while in use.
I thought you would get a kick out of this. I goofed following my own plan! The plan calls for 33-5/8″ stiles and I cut them to 35-5/8″. I guess it’s better to have them too long rather than too short! The old saying still works today… measure twice, cut once.
DIY Folding Workbench Plan
Click here to download the FREE plan
Step 1. Cut the Legs. 8 pieces of 1×4 to 33-5/8″.
Step 2. Cut the Rails. Cut 8 pieces of 1×4 to 15″. Drill pocket holes in the ends of each rail.
Step 3. Assemble the Legs. I clamped scrap pieces of 1×4 to the bottom of each leg to help align the bottom rail. Apply glue to the ends of the rails, clamp to the legs and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Repeat for the remaining three legs assemblies.
Step 4. Attach the Hinges. Place two legs assemblies on the workbench and attach two hinges. Next, rotate the legs so the hinges face away from you.
Then insert one leg assembly below and one leg assembly above the set of legs that were rotated. Attach four hinges to these legs. The legs will form a “W” when complete.
Step 5. Cut the Plywood Top. Cut a piece of 3/4″ plywood to 33-3/4″ x 22-5/8″.
Step 6. Cut the Side Aprons. Cut two pieces of 1×5 to 22-5/8″. Use the guide below to mark locations for the pocket holes and then drill pocket holes in each ends of each apron.
This step is important because you’ll want to be sure you will be able to access the pocket holes to attach the side aprons to the front and back aprons once the plywood top is installed.
Step 7. Cut the Front and Back Aprons. Cut two pieces of 1×5 to 35-1/4″.
Step 8. Assemble the Top. Apply glue to the ends of the side aprons (be sure to position the aprons so you have access to all of the pocket holes), clamp to front and back aprons, insert the plywood top and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.
Flip the top assembly and make sure the top is flush with the tops of the aprons. Drill countersink holes and attach the top to the aprons using 1-1/4″ wood screws.