Easy DIY Dog Bowl Stand (Bone-Shaped!)

Elevate your small dog’s food and add a fun touch to their feeding area with this easy DIY bone-shaped dog bowl stand! Plans and patterns included!

Are you looking for an easy way to make your small dog’s food and water easier to reach? Check out this DIY dog bowl stand! It is simple to make, and its adorable bone shape will add some fun and personality to your pup’s feeding area. Keep reading for the free patterns and step-by-step instructions!

Inspiration for this DIY Dog Bowl Stand

A while back, I rescued a senior Shih Tzu named Oliver, or as I call him, “Grampy Oliver!” This poor guy was found in the middle of the road, emaciated, covered in fleas, and matted so thick that the animal control officer thought he was missing one of his eyes.

Fast forward a few months, and Grampy is now happy, healthy, and enjoying life! One of the things he loves the most is his food, so I was concerned when he became reluctant to eat. A trip to the vet revealed my old man was dealing with common age-related arthritis and muscle aches.

In addition to some treatments, the vet recommended elevating his bowls so he wouldn’t have to bend down to eat and drink.

That’s when the idea of making a dog bowl stand came to me. The bone shape adds a fun touch, and the stand raises Grampy’s food and water bowls so he can enjoy mealtime more comfortably.

If you have a senior dog or you’re looking for a fun way to spruce up your pup’s feeding area, try making this adorable bone-shaped dog bowl stand!

---

What Tools Do You Need?

You’ll only need four tools to make your dog bowl stand: a miter saw, a scroll saw, a pocket hole jig, and a drill.

I also used a portable spindle sander and disc sander to speed up the sanding process on this project’s curved details. If you don’t have these tools, you can finish the project with a few pieces of sandpaper; however, it might take a little extra time to smooth out any saw marks.

Miter Saw

I used my miter saw to cut all the stand’s parts to length.

Scroll Saw

I used my scroll saw to cut the bone-shaped top and the curved details on the rails and legs, but you might be able to use a jigsaw instead.

Pocket Hole Jig

To join the stand’s parts, I used my Kreg K5 to make pocket holes; however, you can use whatever pocket hole jig you have.

Related: Which Pocket Hole Jig Should You Buy? (Here’s the Answer)

Drill

Using my drill, I made the pocket holes and drove the pocket hole screws that connect the stand’s parts. I also needed a right angle drill attachment to drive the screws that attach the rails to the legs.

Related: How to Use a Drill (Tips & Techniques)

---

What Wood Should You Use?

This dog bowl stand doesn’t require much wood, so I made mine with pine scrap wood pieces I had lying around my workshop.

Pine is affordable and easy to work with, but it’s easily dented, so consider hardwoods like poplar or oak if you want something more durable.

---

How Do You Draw the Curved Details?

You might be thinking, “I can’t draw a bone!” Don’t worry. I’ve got you covered!

The free printable plan includes three patterns (bone, rails, and legs) that make tracing the curved details a breeze.

All you have to do is grab your free plan, print the templates, and trace them onto your boards – that’s all there is to it.

---

How Do You Finish the Dog Bowl Stand?

You can paint, stain or leave your dog bowl stand natural. I left mine natural and finished it with a few coats of this polyurethane alternative.

TIP: To make your stand unique, you could use a laser engraver to inscribe your pup’s name on the top.

---

Step 1. Make the Rails

Cut two pieces of wood to length for the rails.

Print the rail template at the end of the plan and trace it onto the rails.

I used a scroll saw to cut the rail’s curved detail, but you might be able to use a jigsaw instead. For best results, I suggest leaving the line when making your cut, then fine-tuning your work by sanding up to it.

A portable spindle sander is your best bet to smooth these curved edges quickly and effortlessly. If you don’t have one, you’ll have to smooth them by hand with sandpaper, which is doable, but definitely takes more work!

Related: The Best Sanders for Furniture (Which One to Buy & Why)

Next, I drilled two pocket holes on each end of the rail.

Related: How to Use a Pocket Hole Jig

---

Step 2. Attach the Legs

Cut two pieces of wood to length for the legs.

Print the leg template at the end of the plan and trace it onto the legs.

Again, I used a scroll saw to cut the leg’s curved detail, but you might be able to use a jigsaw.

I smoothed the curved edge using my portable spindle sander.

Use the diagram in the printed plan to mark the locations for pocket holes that will attach the legs to the top.

I don’t recommend attaching a top to a base with pocket screws for most projects because they don’t allow for wood movement, which could cause the top to crack.

Related: How to Attach a Table Top to a Base (The Right Way)

However, the wood grain of the stand’s top and sides are oriented in the same direction, allowing them to expand and contract without being restricted by other fasteners or cross members, reducing the wood splitting risk.

Related: Mistakes with Wood Can Cause Your DIY Furniture to Crack

Next, drill two pocket holes on one end of each leg.

Apply glue to the ends of the rails, position them on the legs, and clamp.

TIP: I used scrap wood pieces, known as clamping cauls, between the leg assembly and the clamps. Cauls help evenly distribute the clamping force and prevent damage to your project’s surface.

Attach the rails to the legs using pocket screws. Space is limited inside the stand, so I needed to use a right angle drill attachment to drive the screws.

Related: How to Change a Drill Bit (Step-by-Step)

TIP: I’ve found narrow boards like 1×2s with two pocket screws close together can sometimes cause the wood to split. Typically you’ll attach pine using coarse-thread pocket screws, but I’m using smaller fine-thread pocket screws, which should reduce the risk of splitting the wood.

---

Step 3. Attach the Top

Cut two pieces of wood to length for the top.

Apply glue to the edges and clamp. Allow the glue to dry for about an hour.

Print the top template at the end of the plan and trace it onto the top.

I used a scroll saw to cut the bone shape, but you might be able to use a jigsaw.

I used my disc sander to smooth the top’s curved edges, but if you don’t have one, a palm sander or random orbit sander will work. You could also smooth them by hand with sandpaper, but it will take a little more time and effort.

To simplify clamping, I flipped the top upside down across a corner of my workbench, allowing me to easily attach the clamps once the leg assembly was centered on the top.

Then I attached the legs to the top using pocket screws.

---

Step 4. Finish Your DIY Dog Bowl Stand

See How Do You Finish the Dog Bowl Stand for more information.

---

---

Final Thoughts

This DIY dog bowl stand shaped like an adorable bone is a fun and easy project nearly anyone can build. With a few simple cuts and pocket screws, you’ll make your little pup’s mealtime more enjoyable.

Don’t wait. Get your free plan (including the detailed instructions and measurements) now!

Thank you for stopping by. If you enjoyed this tutorial, would you please take a moment and pin it to Pinterest? I’d really appreciate it!

---

Recommended For You

---

Pin This For Later