DIY Vintage Style Jelly Cabinet

Hey there friends! No matter if you call them jelly cupboards or jelly cabinets, I’m obsessed with them. Today I’m sharing new DIY furniture plans for a DIY vintage style jelly cabinet.

I can’t say why I’m fascinated with jelly cabinets. Maybe it’s the tall, compact design. Perhaps it’s the yummy contents that could be hiding behind the door. Whatever the reason, I wanted to design and build my own.

Here’s what I came up with… Classic jelly cabinet style combined with modern Kreg jig joinery. Don’t let all of the steps fool you. This project is fairly easy to build. It’s great for almost any room of the house. My aunt has one in her bathroom for towels and toiletries. It’s also perfect for displays at craft shows or shops.

This project can easily be customized. The plan calls for a beadboard door. Well, actually Lowe’s calls the product “pattern stock”, but it sure looks like beadboard to me. Other possibilities include a solid wood door for a more rustic look or a frame and panel door for a more tailored look. Leave the door off for an open bookcase or you could even add a curtain. The options are endless!

Vintage Style Jelly Cabinet Plan

Supplies
2 – 1x3x8
2 – 1x4x8
2 – 1x12x8
3 – 8′ Beadboard (Pattern Stock from Lowe’s)
Bed Molding (optional)
Knob
2 – Vintage style surface hinges
1-1/4″ pocket screws
1-1/4″ wood screws
1-1/4″ finish nails
1″ finish nails
Wood glue

Tools
Stanley FatMax Tape Measure
Jig Saw
Miter Saw
Kreg Jig
DEWALT Drill

Step 1. Cut sides. Cut 2 pieces of 1×12 to 47-1/2″.

Step 2. Layout and Cut leg detail – see illustration in Step 1. Be sure to make a left and right leg. Measure up from bottom of leg 4″ and draw a faint line across leg. Along the front edge, measure in 2-3/4″ on the line you just made and make a mark. From the back edge, measure in 3-1/2″ on the line you just made and make a mark. On the bottom of the front edge measure in 1-1/4″ and make a mark. Using a straight edge connect the mark on the bottom to the top. On the bottom of the back edge measure in 2″ and make a mark. Using a straight edge connect the mark on the bottom to the top. Using a jig saw, cut out the center area to form the legs.

Step 3. Drill pocket holes along the front edge of each leg (the front is the one that has a leg that measures 1-1/4″ at the bottom). Be sure to drill the holes on the right and left leg, so the holes will be on the inside of the cabinet. These holes will be used to attach the face frame to the case in Step 9.

Step 4. Make case top and bottom. Cut two pieces of 1×12 to 17-1/2″ and rip to 10-3/4″ wide. Drill pocket holes in the end of each piece. For the top only, on the same side you drilled pocket holes in the ends, also drill a few pocket holes along one edge of each piece. These holes will be used to attach the face frame to the case in Step 9.

Step 5. Assemble the case. Place the bottom, so pocket holes face the floor and the top (be sure the pocket holes along the edge face towards the front of the case), so the pocket holes face the ceiling. This way the pocket holes will not be seen from the inside. The bottom is set 4″ from the bottom of the legs. For alignment purposes, you can rip some scrap to 4″ and clamp to the bottom. Apply glue to ends of the top and bottom, clamp into position, check for square and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Step 6. Make the shelves. Cut 2 pieces of 1×12 to 17-1/2″ and rip to 9-1/2″. Drill pocket holes on each end of the shelves.

Step 7. Install the shelves. For alignment purposes, cut 2 pieces of scrap to 13-7/16″. Place scrap on bottom, place shelf on the scrap and position so shelf is 3/4″ from the back of the case (it’s important the shelves are positioned 3/4″ from the back edge, because the back (see Step 10) is 3/4″ thick). Also note the shelf will not be flush with the front of the case. Clamp and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Move the scrap to the top and repeat for the top shelf.

Step 8. Make the face frame. Cut a 1×3 to 12″ to form the top rail and drill pocket holes in each end. Cut 2 pieces of 1×4 to 47-1/2″ to form the legs. Measure up 4″ on each piece, and on the bottom, measure in 2″ and connect your marks. Remove this material using a jig saw to form the feet. Apply glue to the rail and attach to the tops of the legs using 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Be sure the angles on the legs face inward.

Step 9. Attach the face frame. Apply glue to the front edge of the case, place the face frame and clamp to the case. Using the holes drilled in Step 2 and Step 3, attach face frame to the case using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Step 10. Attach the back. Cut beadboard (pattern stock) to 43-1/2″. Starting in the middle of the back of the case, center one piece of the beadboard and attach using 1-1/4″ finish nails. Measure to the left and right of the piece you just attached and rip side pieces to fit. Attach the remaining pieces using 1-1/4″ finish nails.

Step 11. Make the top. Cut 4 pieces of 1×4 to 22-1/2″. Drill pocket holes in 3 edges of the pieces, apply glue to the edges, clamp and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Note: you may want to adjust the length and width to make the top smaller if you won’t be using the bed molding in Step 12.

Center top on case, with the back flush against the back of the case and attach from inside the cabinet using 1-1/4″ wood screws.

Step 12. Optional – attach bed molding. Cut bed molding and attach using glue and 1″ finish nails.

Step 13. Make the door. Cut 2 pieces of the bead board (pattern stock) to 40-7/8″. Check the height and width of the door opening in the case, and if necessary, adjust measurement of the door to leave 1/8″ gap on the sides and top of door. Cut beadboard to length and rip to width.

Cut 3 pieces of 1×3 to 9-3/4″ to use as door brackets. Pre drill holes in the brackets, center on the door pieces and position 2-1/2″ from the top and bottom of the door. Place the third bracket in the middle of the door. Clamp and attach brackets using 1-1/4″ wood screws. Attach door to case with hinges.

Step 14. Make the latch. You can use a piece of scrap or cut a piece to 1″ x 2″. Pre drill a hole and attach to the face frame using a 1-1/4″ wood screw. The knob can also be attached at this point.

I finished mine with a chippy paint look, but you can finish these any way you choose. And be sure to fill your jelly cabinet with some yummy jams and jellies!

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