DIY Vintage Style Jelly Cabinet

Hey there friends! No matter if you call them jelly cupboards or jelly cabinets, I’m obsessed with them. Today I’m sharing new DIY furniture plans for a DIY vintage style jelly cabinet.

I can’t say why I’m fascinated with jelly cabinets. Maybe it’s the tall, compact design. Perhaps it’s the yummy contents that could be hiding behind the door. Whatever the reason, I wanted to design and build my own.

Here’s what I came up with. A classic jelly cabinet style that’s assembled with modern pocket hole joinery. Don’t let all of the steps fool you. This project is fairly easy to build.

Related: How to Use a Kreg Jig

This is a great storage project for almost any room of the house. My aunt has one in her bathroom for towels and toiletries. It’s also perfect for displaying items at a craft show or vintage shop.

This project can easily be customized. The plan calls for a beadboard door. Other possibilities include a solid wood door for a more rustic look or a frame and panel door for a more tailored look. Leave the door off for an open bookcase or you could even add a curtain. The options are endless!

Step 1. Cut the Sides

Cut 2 pieces of 1×12 to 47-1/2″.

Measure up 4” from the bottom and draw a line across the board.

At the front of the leg, measure in 2-3/4″ and make a mark. On the bottom of the front leg measure in 1-1/4″ and make a mark. Use a straightedge to connect the marks on the front of the leg.

At the back of the leg, measure in 3-1/2″ and make a mark. On the bottom of the back leg measure in 2″ and make a mark. Use a straightedge to connect the marks on the back of the leg.

Use a jig saw to cut out the area between the front and back legs.

NOTE: Be sure to make a left and right side.

Drill pocket holes along the front edge of each leg (the front has the leg that measures 1-1/4″ at the bottom). 

Be sure to make a left and right side, so the pocket holes will face towards the inside of the cabinet. These holes will be used to attach the face frame to the case in Step 6.

Step 2. Make the Top and Bottom

Cut 2 pieces of 1×12 to 17-1/2″ and use a table saw or circular saw to rip to 10-1/2″ wide. Drill pocket holes in the end of each piece.

For the top only, also drill a few pocket holes along the front edge. These holes will be used to attach the face frame to the case in Step 6.

Related: 4 Ways to Make Straight Cuts with a Circular Saw

Step 3. Assemble the Case

Position the bottom so the pocket holes face the floor and the top so that the pocket holes face the ceiling. Also be sure the pocket holes on the edge of the top piece face towards the front of the case. 

The bottom sets up 4″ from the bottom of the legs. To help with positioning, you can cut some scrap wood to 4″ and clamp to the bottom of the legs. 

Apply glue to the ends of the top and bottom, clamp into position, and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Step 4. Make the Shelves

Cut 2 pieces of 1×12 to 17-1/2″ and rip to 9-1/2″. Drill pocket holes on each end of the shelves.

To help with positioning the shelves, cut 4 pieces of scrap wood to 13-7/16″. Place the scrap wood on the bottom of the case, then place a shelf on the scrap wood.

Position the shelf so that it sets in 3/4″ from the back of the case. It’s important the shelves are positioned 3/4″ from the back edge because the back is 3/4″ thick. 

Also, note the shelf will not be flush with the front of the case. Clamp and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws. 

Place the scrap wood on the top of the case, then repeat for the remaining shelf.

Step 5. Make the Face Frame

Cut a 1×3 to 12″ for the top rail and drill pocket holes in each end. 

Cut 2 pieces of 1×4 to 47-1/2″ for the front legs. Measure up 4″ and in 2″ on each piece. Connect the marks with a straightedge and use a jig saw to remove this area.

Apply glue to the rail and attach to the tops of the legs using 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Be sure the angles on the legs face inward.

Step 6. Attach the Face Frame

Apply glue to the front edge of the case, place the face frame, and clamp. Use the pocket holes drilled in the sides and top of the case to attach face frame using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Step 7. Attach the Back

Cut the beadboard planks to 43-1/2″. 

On the back of the case, center the first plank from side to side and attach using 1-1/4″ finish nails.

Measure to the left and right of the piece you just attached. Use a table saw to rip the side pieces to fit. Attach the remaining pieces using 1-1/4″ finish nails.

Related: Beginner’s Guide to Table Saw Safety

Step 8. Make the Top

Cut 4 pieces of 1×4 to 22-1/2″. Drill pocket holes in the edges, apply glue, and clamp. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

NOTE: You may want to adjust the length and width to make the top smaller if you won’t be using the bed molding in Step 12.

Related: Pocket Hole Tips for Edge Joints

Use a ¼” drill bit to drill one hole in each corner of the top of the case. These oversized holes will be used to attach the top to the case. They will also allow the top to move with seasonal changes.

Related: Mistakes with Wood Can Cause Your DIY Furniture to Crack

Position the top on the case. The top is centered from side to side and flush with the back of the case.

Attach from inside of the cabinet using 1-1/4″ wood screws and washers.

Step 9. Attach the Bed molding (optional)

Cut the bed molding and attach using glue and 1″ finish nails.

Step 10. Make the Door

Cut 2 pieces of the beadboard planks to 40-7/8″. Check the height and width of the door opening in the case, and if necessary, adjust the measurement of the door to leave 1/8″ gap on the sides and top of door. Cut the beadboard to length and rip to width.

Cut 3 pieces of 1×3 to 9-3/4″ to use as door brackets. Pre drill holes in the brackets, center on the door pieces and position 2-1/2″ from the top and bottom of the door. Place the third bracket in the middle of the door. Clamp and attach brackets using 1-1/4″ wood screws.

Attach the door to the case with hinges.

Step 11. Make the Latch

You can use a piece of scrap wood or cut a piece to 1×2 for the latch. Pre drill a hole and attach to the face frame using a 1-1/4″ wood screw. The knob can also be attached at this point.

I finished jelly cabinet with a chippy paint look, but you can finish these any way you choose. And be sure to fill your jelly cabinet with some yummy jams and jellies!

---

---