This DIY wine cabinet attractively displays entertaining essentials like wine bottles and wine glasses and a drawer provides a place to store accessories.
This wood DIY wine cabinet boasts nine spaces for wine bottle storage, three stemware holders for displaying up to 12 wine glasses and a drawer perfect for storing accessories like a bottle opener. The wine cabinet is easy to assemble thanks to the Kreg Jig and pocket hole construction.
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Originally published April 7, 2015, updated December 19, 2017
Recently I received a message saying my original wine cabinet plan was “confusing and difficult to follow.” The message shouldn’t have come as a surprise. The original plan for this DIY wine cabinet was published just one month after launching Saws on Skates in 2015. It was only the third plan I had ever published. Since then I’ve learned a lot and the DIY furniture plans have come a long way. I’ve worked to make the instructions more comprehensive and the sketches more detailed.
After receiving the message I took a hard look at the plan. The original sketches from 2015 were crude, the instructions were “meh” and the photography was awful. It was time for a wine cabinet plan makeover! From new photos and new sketches to improved instructions, the entire plan has been overhauled for you!
The DIY wine cabinet was built for an empty wall in my dining room. It was a short wall between a door and a window that was begging for a cool piece of furniture. This Mod Wine Bar by Lady Goats was talking to me, but it was too large for my space. I also liked this wine cabinet plan on woodcraft.com that incorporates the stemware in the cabinet.
I combined the best elements of each plan and came up with a plan for my own DIY wine cabinet. After I built my original cabinet I thought the piece needed a tweak here and there. Those tweaks are incorporated in this new plan.
The DIY wine cabinet features three stemware holders that can hold up to 12 wine glasses.
The DIY wine cabinet also features a storage drawer for wine accessories like bottle openers, etc. There are no drawer slides, so the drawer is super easy to build.
Years ago when I finished the DIY wine bar I applied a coat of wood dye and three coats of Bob’s Miracle Finish for Wood. Maybe I just need more practice with wood dye, but for me, it didn’t knock my socks off. It was sort of… just OK. I want more than “OK” for my DIY furniture, so this is how I would finish the cabinet now.
First, I always prep all of my DIY furniture projects for finishing by giving the piece a thorough sanding. Then fill any holes or gaps with a DIY wood filler. Next, apply a tea stain. Don’t skip this step. The tea preps the wood for the next step. Check out why I always apply a tea stain to my furniture projects here.
After the tea stain is dry this piece is lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper. Rather than wood dye, I would opt for a coat of my favorite wood stain – Dark Walnut Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain. The Rust-Oleum stains always provide a deep, rich color.
For a finish, I would either apply three coats of Bob’s Miracle Finish for Wood or use my new favorite technique for applying polyurethane… spraying with a HomeRight Super Finish Max sprayer! Check out how easy it is to spray polyurethane here.
Before you skate down to the DIY wine cabinet plan I have two more wine storage ideas for you. Be sure you check out the wall-mounted wine bar and the DIY wine credenza. OK, now let’s make a wine cabinet!
DIY Wine Cabinet Plan
(1) 2’x4′ sheet of 1/8″ hardboard
(1) 2’x4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
(2) 2’x4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
(1) 2’x4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
1×12 – about 16″
#8 1-1/4″ wood screws
1/2″ pin nails
1″ brad nails
1-1/4″ brad nails
1″ pocket screws
1-1/4″ pocket screws
Click below to get a PDF of the DIY Wine Cabinet plan.
Step 1. Cut the Top Side Rails. Cut 2 pieces of 1×4 to 11-1/4″.
Step 2. Cut the Bottom Side Rails. Cut 2 pieces of 1×3 to 11-1/4″.
Step 3. Cut the Side Panels. Rip 2 pieces of 1/2″ plywood to 11-1/4″ and cut to 31-1/2″. Set your Kreg Jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket holes at the locations indicated on the diagram.
Step 4. Assemble the Side Panels. Apply glue to the rails, place on the panel and clamp until the glue is dry.
Step 5. Cut the Legs. Cut 4 pieces of 2×2 to 33-1/2″.
Step 6. Attach the Legs to the Panels. Apply glue to the edge of a panel, position the back of the panel so that it’s flush with the back of the legs, clamp and attach using 1″ pocket screws. Repeat for the other panel.
Step 7. Assemble the Shelves. Cut 3 pieces of 1×3 to 11″ and drill pocket holes where indicated on the diagram. Rip 3 pieces of 3/4″ plywood to 11″, cut to 11-1/4″ and drill pocket holes where indicated on the diagram. Apply glue, clamp and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Repeat for the other shelves.
Step 8. Install the Shelves. It’s easiest to install the bottom shelf first and work up. To help with the installation cut pieces of scrap wood to 4-1/2″. Clamp the scrap wood to the bottom of the legs, place the shelf on scrap wood and attach with 1-1/4″ pocket screws. For the next shelf, cut scrap wood to 11″. Place the scrap wood on top of the first shelf, clamp to the side, place the shelf on the scrap wood and attach with 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Repeat for the remaining shelf.
Step 9. Install the Front Rail. Cut 5 pieces of 1×3 to 11″ and drill pocket holes in each end. 1 piece will be used as a front rail, 2 pieces will be used as back rails (Step 10) and 2 pieces will be used as the top stretchers (Step 13).
Place the rail below the bottom shelf and set in 1/4″ from the front of the legs. Clamp in position and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.
Step 10. Install the Back Rails. Place the rails below the shelves and flush with the backs of the legs. Clamp in position and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.
Step 11. Assemble the Stemware Holders. For the upright pieces rip 4 pieces of 1/2″ plywood to 1-1/2″ and cut to 13-1/4″.
For the outside horizontal pieces rip 2 pieces of 1/2″ plywood to 1-3/8″ and cut to 13-1/4″. Apply glue to the edge of an upright, clamp to a horizontal piece and attach using 1″ brad nails. Repeat for the other outside holder.
For the inside horizontal pieces rip 2 pieces of 1/2″ plywood to 2-1/4″ and cut to 13-1/4″. Apply glue to the edge of an upright, center on a horizontal piece, clamp and attach using 1″ brad nails. Repeat for the other inside holder.
Step 12. Install the Stemware Holders. Apply glue to the upright of an outside holder, place below the shelf and attach from the top with 1-1/4″ brad nails. Repeat for the other outside holder.
To help install the inside holders cut a piece of scrap wood to 3″ and place against the outside holder. Apply glue to the upright, place against the scrap wood and attach from the top with 1-1/4″ brad nails. Repeat for the other outside holder.
Step 13. Install the Top Stretchers. Position the front stretcher 1″ from the front legs and the back stretcher 1/2″ from the back legs. Clamp in position and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Drill 4 holes, one in each corner, so the top can be installed in the next step.
Step 14. Make and Install the Top. Cut 1 piece of 1×4 to 15″. Cut 1 piece of 1×12 to 15″. Drill pocket holes, apply glue, clamp and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.
Position the top on the cabinet. The top is flush with the back and centered from side to side. From inside the drawer area use 1-1/4″ wood screws through the 4 holes drilled in the stretchers (Step 13) and attach the top. Be sure the holes are slightly oversized so the top can move during seasonal changes.
Step 15. Install the Back Panels. Rip 1 piece of 1/2″ plywood to 11″ and cut to 5-1/2″. Rip 1 piece of 1/2″ plywood to 11″ and cut to 12-1/2″. Position the back panels and attach using 1″ brad nails.
Step 16. Cut the Drawer Box Front/Back. Cut 2 pieces of 1×4 to 9-1/4″ and drill pocket holes in each end.
Step 17. Assemble the Drawer Box. Cut 2 pieces of 1×4 to 13″. Apply glue to the ends of the front and back, clamp to the side pieces and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.
Step 18. Attach the Drawer Bottom. Rip a piece of 1/8″ hardboard to 10-3/4″ and cut to 13″. Apply glue to the bottom of the drawer box, position the bottom and attach using 1/2″ pin nails.
Step 19. Make the Drawer Front. Measure the drawer area opening. We want 1/8″ clearance on each side of the drawer front, so deduct 1/4″ from your top to bottom dimension and deduct 1/4″ from your side to side dimension. My drawer front measured 10-3/4″ x 4-1/2″. Adjust your drawer front if necessary.
Next, determine the knob location. Use a straight edge to draw a line from corner to corner. Drill a hole slightly larger than the screw that came with your knob.
Place a few pieces of scrap 1/8″ hardboard on the bottom of the drawer opening and each side. Place the drawer front in position and drill a hole through the drawer front into the drawer box. Attach the knob and be sure the drawer front is centered in the drawer opening.
Then remove the drawer, drill countersink holes and attach the drawer box to the drawer front using 1-1/4″ wood screws.
Step 20. Make the Bottle Dividers. Rip 4 pieces of 1/4″ plywood to 11″ and then cut to 13-1/4″. The easiest way to make the slot is with a router table and a 1/4″ straight cutting bit. Set the fence for 3-1/2″ and make a pass to the 6-5/8″ mark, then flip and make a second pass. Interlock the slots and install in the bottle divider area. It will be a snug fit, so glue isn’t needed.
Step 21. Sand and finish. If staining, fill any holes or gaps with a DIY wood filler and apply black tea. Sand the piece. Apply a coat of Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain and either three coats of Bob’s Miracle Finish for Wood or spray three coats of polyurethane. If painting, fill any holes or gaps with Ready Patch, prime, and paint.
Thank you for stopping by to check out my DIY wine cabinet. If you like this furniture plan, would you please pin it to Pinterest? I’d really appreciate it! Thank you – Scott